A good brick paver job starts long before the first base stone is compacted. The site visit sets the tone for everything that follows, from the accuracy of your quote to whether your driveway drains properly during a storm. If you have never walked a property with a brick paver contractor before, the process can feel mysterious. It does not need to. With a little preparation and a clear sense of what to watch for, you can learn a lot about a contractor’s professionalism in under an hour.
This guide pulls from years of planning and building brick pavers for driveway projects, patios, and walkways in homes ranging from tight city lots to sprawling suburban corners. The details here will help you understand what your paver contractor is looking for, what they should be asking you, and the decisions you will face together.
The first few minutes: chemistry and clarity
Expect a brief conversation at the curb or front door. A seasoned brick paver contractor will start by listening. They want to hear how you use the space, what bothers you about the current setup, and what a win best synthetic turf installers looks like. You might hear questions like, “How many cars park here on a typical evening?” or “Do you back in or pull straight through?” These are practical cues for how to shape a driveway, where to create turn-in flares, and where to avoid tight corner pinch points.
Communication style matters. A contractor who can explain base depth in plain language and sketch a quick layout on paper without jargon usually runs a tight jobsite. If they rush to talk about paver colors before understanding your soil, slope, and water behavior, make a note. The prettiest pavers will fail on a bad foundation.
Walking the site: what pros look for that homeowners often miss
The tour tends to begin at the lowest point of your driveway. Water follows gravity, so a contractor will read the slope by eye, then confirm it with a level or digital slope meter. A driveway that looks flat to you may actually tilt toward the house by a fraction of an inch per foot, enough to send stormwater where it shouldn’t go.
Plan on a slow walk from the street to the garage. The contractor should observe:
- Where water wants to go on its own. You will see them look for gutter downspouts, depressed lawn areas, and stains on the existing pavement. If the lower two feet of your garage drywall shows water marks, that tells a story. If there is a thin ribbon of silt at the street after heavy rain, that tells a different story. Good contractors trust evidence, not guesses.
They will also probe the edges with a spade or screwdriver. The goal is to gauge soil type near the surface: loose loam, clay, sandy fill, or a blend. For brick pavers driveway work, clay requires more vigilance, because it holds water and can heave with freeze-thaw cycles. In sandy soils, drainage is easy but edge restraint becomes vital to prevent creep.
Expect them to note utilities. Gas lines often run near a driveway edge, and sprinkler lines almost always cross the apron. I carry marking flags and a small paint can. A quick map prevents surprises when the crew starts excavation.
Measurements that matter
Measurements happen quickly if done well. Width and length are obvious, but the details separate a polished install from a mediocre one. A brick paver contractor will measure:
- Finished elevations, especially at fixed points like garage slab, stoops, and thresholds. Pavers should finish about a half inch below the garage slab to keep water from blowing in, and slightly below door thresholds to avoid trip hazards. Curb tie-in. If your street has a rolled curb versus a hard vertical curb, the apron shape changes. Municipal rules sometimes dictate apron width and slope. Good contractors ask if you have an HOA or city specifications. Drive lane geometry. If you back a full-size SUV out regularly, the flare near the street might need an extra foot or two of width to prevent lawn ruts.
You may see them stretch a string line from the garage to the curb. That line shows straightness, and it provides an instant visual of bumps or bellies in the current surface. If a contractor does not carry a level or string, be cautious. The best jobs are solved in layout, not in the last hour of compaction.
Talking about base, the unglamorous hero
Most failures in brick pavers for driveway projects trace back to an underbuilt base or poor drainage. I spend more time discussing base than the pavers themselves. Expect a contractor to explain, in practical terms, how deep they plan to excavate and what they plan to rebuild with. Typical ranges for a driveway in a freeze-thaw climate:
- Excavation depth: usually 9 to 12 inches below final paver surface, deeper in clay or poor soils. Base stone: 6 to 8 inches of well-graded aggregate, compacted in lifts. Angled stone locks together better than clean pea gravel. Bedding layer: about 1 inch of concrete sand or ASTM C33 bedding sand, screeded flat, never compacted before the pavers are set.
In milder climates with stable subgrade, excavation may be closer to 8 or 9 inches. On a new build with clean fill and proper compaction, sometimes you can shave an inch and still sleep at night. On a soft, wet, high-clay lot, I have gone to 14 inches, with geotextile fabric beneath the base to separate it from the soil. A contractor who knows when to add fabric and when to skip it will preserve your investment.
Ask them how many passes with a plate compactor they make per lift, and whether they use a jumping jack at edges and tight spots. The right answer includes multiple passes, moisture conditioned base, and attention to the edges where compaction is trickiest.
The drainage conversation you really want to have
Water ruins more hardscapes than heavy vehicles do. Plan to spend a few minutes on flow lines, pitch, and drain options. The rule of thumb is a minimum fall of about one inch per eight feet on a driveway surface, but I prefer a bit more when the distance allows it. You can also split the pitch, sending water both toward the street and toward a side swale if the garage threshold limits how much you can drop.
If the driveway sits below the street or the house pinches the grade, the contractor might recommend a channel drain across the apron or in front of the garage. Ask about cleanout access and where the drain discharges. Tying a channel into a downspout line seems tidy until you learn that the pipe is already undersized. Two storms later, water backs up under the pavers and you wonder why the joints stay damp.
Permeable paver systems are another option. I use them selectively. They are excellent in jurisdictions that offer stormwater credits, and they can solve chronic puddling on flat lots. They cost more, because the base is built with open-graded stone and includes larger void space. Maintenance also requires periodic vacuuming of joint aggregate. A thoughtful paver contractor will walk you through the trade-offs, not push the most expensive path.
Choosing pavers: looks, loads, and life cycle
It is tempting to jump straight to color boards. Hold off until layout and base are settled. Then you can choose from styles that fit your architecture and traffic. For driveways, full-thickness concrete pavers rated for vehicle loads should be the default. Most are 2 3/8 inches thick. In regions with snowplows or for heavier vehicles, I sometimes step up to 3 1/8 inches. Clay brick pavers bring great colorfastness and a timeless look, but they require precise bedding and edge restraint because they can be thinner and vary slightly in size.
Patterns affect performance. Herringbone, either at 45 degrees or running perpendicular to the drive, interlocks tightly and resists wheel ruts. Running bond looks clean but can show tracking in the tire paths over time. If you want a border, keep it simple near the garage door to avoid visual clutter, then get playful near the street where a double sailor course can frame the apron nicely.
Color reads differently outside than it does in a showroom. Ask your brick paver contractor to bring a few full-size pieces you can set on the ground. Look at them at noon and again in the evening. Blended colors hide tire marks and dust better than solid charcoal, which can show salt and pollen. I often steer clients toward a mid-gray body paver with a darker border. It ages gracefully and avoids the heat buildup you get with deep black tones.
Edging, restraints, and the fight against creep
Driveway pavers endure lateral force every time a car turns its wheel. Without proper edge restraint, the field wants to spread. There are three reliable approaches:
- Concrete restraint with a hidden curb poured tight to the paver edge. Strong, but permanent. PVC or composite edging staked into the compacted base outside the pavers, not just into soil. Flexible, discrete, easy to service. Soldier course of pavers set on a concrete toe. Traditional, visible, and sturdy.
Each has a place. On a curved driveway with ornamental beds, I favor composite edging because it bends cleanly and disappears under mulch. On a straight, formal drive, a soldier course reads sharp and gives the border rhythm. The key is anchoring into the base, not loose dirt. If the contractor drives spikes into topsoil to hold edging, it will move with freeze-thaw cycles.
The estimate you can understand
By the end of the visit, you should have enough shared understanding for a detailed estimate. Line items may include excavation, base material and depth, geotextile if needed, paver square footage with the specific brand and style, edging type, drainage components, and labor. If the quote simply lists “paver driveway” and a single number, ask for more detail. It protects both sides from mismatched expectations.
I like ranges when unknowns exist, with a clear note describing what pushes the number up or down. For example: “If we find more than 3 inches of soft fill under the existing concrete, we will excavate and replace with additional base stone at X per ton.” Surprises are the enemy of good feelings at the end of a job. Clear allowances keep the relationship intact.
Permits, inspections, and neighbors
Some municipalities require a permit for replacing a driveway, especially if the apron touches the public right-of-way. The paver contractor should know your local rules and whether inspections will be needed. If you live on a narrow street, discuss staging. Where will pallets of pavers sit? Will the crew need to cone off curb space? A quick chat with the neighbor who shares a driveway edge often prevents friction later.
Noise and dust management deserve a mention. Cutting pavers with water-fed saws reduces dust dramatically. If your contractor cuts dry without dust control, expect a chalky film on cars and windows. Ask about their plan. It is reasonable to schedule heavy cutting for midday and to protect sensitive areas with plastic sheeting or temporary barriers.
Timeline, daily flow, and the messy middle
A typical brick pavers driveway project runs three to seven working days depending on size, soil, and weather. Day one is demolition and excavation. Day two and three focus on base installation and compaction. Day four often brings paver laying, and day five wraps borders, cutting, and joint sand. Add a day for drainage work or complex patterns.
You should know who is on site and who runs the crew. I like a brief daily update by text with a photo. It takes two minutes and removes guesswork. If rain is in the forecast, the crew may leave the base slightly crowned to shed water overnight. That is a good sign, not a shortcut. Covering the bedding sand before a storm also shows discipline.
During the messy middle, your driveway will look worse before it looks better. Heavy equipment moves in and out, and there will be a temporary mountain of stone. A clean contractor keeps those piles tidy and uses plywood where needed to protect adjacent lawn. If the property has delicate plantings, flag them early and consider temporary fencing or boards to protect them from tail swing.
Sealing and long-term maintenance, straight talk
Sealing pavers is optional. It enhances color and can make cleaning easier, but it also requires reapplication every few years depending on your climate and traffic. I tell most driveway clients to live with the pavers for a season before deciding. Some love the natural, slightly matte finish. Others want the richer tone a penetrating sealer provides. Film-forming sealers can make pavers look glossy but may be slippery when wet. For a driveway, a breathable, penetrating sealer is the safer choice if you choose to seal.
As for joint sand, polymeric products have improved. They resist washout and inhibit weeds when installed correctly: dry conditions, proper compaction, and a thorough blow-off before misting. Even so, expect to touch up joints in high-traffic or high-drainage areas every couple of years. Weed seeds blow in from above, they do not grow up from beneath a properly built base, so joint maintenance is more about surface housekeeping than structural failure.
Snow removal? A polyurethane blade edge or rubber edge on a plow will treat pavers kindly. Metal edges can scuff, especially on beveled profiles. If you use salt, choose a paver rated for freeze-thaw durability and deicers that are less aggressive than sodium chloride, such as calcium magnesium acetate, especially in the first winter.
Red flags that tell you to keep looking
You can learn a lot during one site visit. A few behaviors should make you cautious. If the contractor dismisses base depth concerns with “We always do four inches and it’s fine,” that is not enough for a driveway in most climates. If they do not talk about slope or cannot explain where water will go, walk away. If they push a specific paver brand without discussing performance or your design goals, they may be chasing a rebate, not the right solution. And if they cannot provide addresses of past driveway work, consider a second opinion.
What you can do before the visit to save time
A little prep makes the visit more productive and the estimate more accurate.
- Gather photos of the driveway during heavy rain, especially if you have puddles or washouts. Evidence beats memory. Measure your typical vehicle lineup and note parking habits so the contractor understands your turning radii and daily use.
If you have underground systems like irrigation or low-voltage lighting, find the controller and note which zones cross the driveway. Marking those lines prevents cut wires and surprise repair costs. Also, decide early if you want to run sleeves under the driveway for future utilities. A couple of 2-inch PVC conduits placed during construction cost very little and save headaches later if you add lighting or an EV charger.
Cost drivers and where to splurge
Pricing varies by region and material, but the main drivers are excavation complexity, base depth, paver choice, and cuts. A long, straight rectangle with standard pavers and simple borders is efficient. A curving drive with inlays, contrasting borders, and multiple elevation changes demands more cutting and layout time. If your budget is tight, invest in the unseen elements first: proper base, drainage, and edge restraint. You can select a mid-tier paver and still get a driveway that performs and looks sharp. Skimp on the base, and you will pay twice.
Where should you splurge? Good lighting near the driveway edge increases safety and makes a brick pavers driveway shine at night. A modest border, even in the same paver color but set perpendicular as a soldier course, frames the space and elevates the design. And if your soil is suspect, the cost of geotextile and a few extra inches of base buys peace of mind that no paver color can match.
A brief example from the field
Two neighboring homes called within the same month. Both wanted brick pavers for driveway replacements. One sat on sandy soil, gently sloped to the street, with a straight 40-foot run. The other was a clay-heavy lot with a slight sag in the middle and a low garage threshold. The first project needed standard excavation to about 10 inches, 6 to 7 inches of compacted base, and a simple herringbone pattern. We wrapped in four working days, and the driveway has looked the same through six winters.
The second required an extra excavation pass and fabric to stabilize the subgrade. We split the pitch so water moved both to the street and to a small side swale. A channel drain in front of the garage tied into a dedicated outlet. The base reached 10 inches of stone in the center sag to ensure uniform support. That job took two extra days and cost about 18 percent more. The homeowner tells me it is the first winter in a decade without ice buildup at the garage door. Same pavers, very different engineering.
Your role during the visit
The best site visits feel like a working session, not a sales pitch. Be ready to answer practical questions and to make a few decisions on the spot.
- Share how you plan to use the space, from daily parking to guest overflow and basketball practice. Use guides like chalk lines or garden hoses to visualize widened areas before committing.
If you waver between two layouts, ask the contractor to paint both options on the existing surface. Seeing the lines full scale gives clarity that no drawing can match. Also, speak up about details that matter to you: a smoother transition at the sidewalk for a stroller, or extra width near the trash bin path. These minor tweaks cost little when planned early and feel invaluable later.
After the visit: what a strong proposal includes
Within a few days, you should receive a written proposal that mirrors the conversation. Look for clarity on:
- Scope: demolition, disposal, excavation depth, base type and thickness, fabric if used, paver brand and pattern, edging type, drainage components, and finish steps. Schedule: approximate start window, estimated duration, and how weather delays are handled. Warranty: what is covered, for how long, and how joint settling or minor movement will be addressed in the first season.
Photos or a simple plan sketch help you visualize the final layout. A sample line that always gives comfort reads something like, “We return within the first year to address any settling over a quarter inch at no charge.” That tells you the contractor stands behind their compacted base and is realistic about how new work behaves in the first cycle of seasons.
Final thoughts from the driveway edge
A brick paver driveway is one of those projects you see and use every day. It should perform as well as it looks, and that performance is largely decided during the site visit. Expect your paver contractor to ask precise questions, test assumptions with a level and a shovel, and describe how water, soil, and stone will work together under your tires. If the conversation stays grounded in those fundamentals, the rest of the choices become enjoyable: patterns, borders, and that satisfying first roll in on a clean, tight surface.
Approach the visit with clear goals, a few photos from rainy days, and an openness to small layout improvements. The right contractor will meet you there, and when they do, you will feel it. The site visit will not feel like a pitch. It will feel like the first day of a well-built project.